Ragu'

RAGU' BOLOGNESE
Meat Sauce

3 oz. pancetta
l/2 lb. ground veal or pork
1 stalk celery
1 small carrot
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 small onion
1 cup broth
1/2 oz. butter
1 tbs.tomato paste
1/2 lb. ground beef
1 oz. cream
pepper
salt

Prepare a battuto with pancetta, celery, carrot and onion. Melt butter in a saucepan, add the battuto and the ground meats, brown well, then add the wine and half the broth. Continue to cook until the liquids are reduced, then add the remaining broth. Reduce again, then add the peeled and seeded tomatoes, a pinch of salt and pepper to taste. Cover saucepan and let cook over a medium heat for 2 hours. Add the cream, and correct salt and pepper to taste. The sauce is ready to serve over fresh or stuffed pasta.

Note: Variations of this sauce may include the addition of prosciutto, porcini or chicken livers.

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RAGU' DI PESCE
Fish Ragu'

The most suitable fish for this ragù is octopus, squid, cuttlefish, prawns, clams and any fish with a firm flesh.

2/3 lb. ripe tomatoes
1 lb. fish
1 small carrot
1 small celery stalk
1 clove garlic
1 oz. parsley
2 cup olive oil
2 oz. dried mushrooms
1/2 glass dry white wine
salt
pepper

Peel the tomatoes, remove seeds and chop in small pieces. Clean the fish carefully and cut in strips or small pieces. Prepare a battuto with onion, carrot, celery, garlic and parsley. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the battuto and mushrooms. Let brown over a medium heat, until the vegetables begin to get tender. Add the wine.

When the wine has evaporated, add the tomatoes, the rest of the ingredients and let cook over a very low heat for about 40 mins. Add the fish and cook till done (time varies according to fish used). Stir occasionally, adding spoonfuls of water if the sauce becomes too dry.

This sauce is best used with medium spaghetti or linguine.

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RAGU' GENOVESE
Braised Onion and Beef Sauce

Despite its name, this is a recipe from Naples and is used as a condiment for pasta. The origins seem to go back to the 16th century, when a group of immigrants from Genoa used to cook meat in this fashion; hence the name genovese.

2 lbs. onion
1 clove garlic
1 celery stalk
1 carrot
1 oz. lard
1 oz. salame
1 oz. prosciutto
3 oz. olive oil
2 oz. pancetta, chopped
1 oz. tomato paste
1 lb. lean round beef
1 cup white wine
salt, pepper
beef bouillon, as needed

Cut onion, garlic, celery and carrot into julienne. Coarsely chop lard, salame and prosciutto. Place the lot into a baking pan, adding oil and pancetta. Sauté slowly, over low heat until the vegetables are soft but not browned. Brown it all around, add the beef and dilute the paste into 1/2 cup of lukewarm water and add to the pot together with the wine and place the roast into the oven at 350ºF. Cook for 3-4 hours, adding beef bouillon as necessary. Salt and pepper to taste. The final result should be that of a rather dark, glazed sauce.

This condiment is good for ziti or any other type of maccheroni with a large hole. The meat can be served together with the ragù or as a separate course.

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RAGU' NAPOLETANO
Neapolitan Ragu'

Naples has its own ragù, with as many variations as you might imagine. Its nickname is ragù guardaporta which means "doorman's ragù " because a doorman supposedly having nothing else to do but watch the main entrance could watch the slow cooking of the ragù as well.

1 onion, thinly sliced
2 oz. oil
1 oz. lard, chopped
1 carrot
1 celery stalk
8 oz. whole top round
1 lb. whole veal shank
8 oz. pork short ribs
3 lbs. tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
20 basil leaves
salt and pepper

In a skillet, sauté one onion in oil and lard. Add chopped carrot and celery. Sauté them until wilted but not browned, add the meats and sauté until browned on all sides.

Add the peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes, basil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir well and cook over very low heat with the pot covered for about 3-4 hours.

When the ragù is ready, remove the meat from the casserole and set aside. Use the sauce as a condiment for maccheroni, and serve the various meats with it or as a second course.

Other variations of ragù may include fresh pork sausages, braciola stuffed with raisins, pine nuts and spices, and pork skins stuffed in the same manner. These meats may be used in addition or instead of other cuts; in any event, the less choice cuts are more suitable for this long cooking ragù. If meats take less time to cook, they may be added halfway through the cooking process.